[Hong Kong 香港] Teakha 茶。家

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Teakha 茶。家

Add: 18 Tai Ping Shan St, Hong Kong
Tel: +852 2858 9185
Hours: 11am-7pm (closed on Mon)
Website: teakha.com
Price: [tea] 40~65/HKD [pastries] 40-50 HKD
Visited: Aug 2016

Hidden in an inner corner of Tai Ping Shan Street is Teakha, a tea house founded by Nana Chan, a Taiwan-born, Hong Kong-raised, and London-educated lawyer-turned-tea shop owner. Her concept, excerpted below, is lovely:

“In many cultures all over the world, tea is the mechanism at which we welcome people into our homes or start a conversation with strangers. Here at teakha, we too believe that tea is a window to opening our hearts. Through this window, we welcome you into our “home”, to experience a lifestyle that is in touch with our community and our environment. One that values the little joys in life as homemade cakes, the sound of music lingering in a back alley, or ever so basically, the forgotten art of talking to our neighbors.”

藏在太平山道一個小角落裏的 “Teakha茶。家” 是家台灣女孩開的茶店,在香港人氣極高。上面一小段話是老闆的初衷,理念十分美好,可以看一下。

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On the tea menu, there’s Indian marsala chai tea, Taiwanese Oolong tea, Japanese matcha, etc. – all single-origin teas sourced by teakha’s sister company Planation directly from small tea plantations.

茶單上,有印度香料茶、台灣烏龍茶、日本抹茶等各式各樣的選擇。

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There are also some simple pastries, the most popular being the matcha cheesecake.

也有簡單的甜點,最有名的聽說是綠茶芝士蛋糕。

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Beautiful colors.

漂亮的藍綠色。

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[Hong Kong 香港] J. Boroski

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J. Boroski

Add: I’m not allowed to say
Tel: +852 2603 6020
Hours: 7pm-late
Price: 100-200 HKD/cocktail
Visited: Aug 2016

In Hong Kong, the hottest place to be sipping cocktails right now is undoubtedly J. Boroski. This hidden bar, just opened a few weeks ago, is tucked away in a small alleyway somewhere in Central (exact location not to be disclosed) and is invitation-only for those in the know – for now.

某天在香港的晚上,朋友問我要不要去一間 “上周才開幕,而且受邀請才能去“ 的秘密酒吧。老實說在上海巴黎也去了不少所謂的 speakeasy bar,心裡默默的懷疑了一下這該不會又是一個空有噱頭,華而不實的地方…不過還是暫且相信朋友的品味,跟著他來到中環某條小巷弄。上方是鋼架、一旁是鐵皮屋,越走越深…然後瞬間鑽入某個不起眼的小門,來到這裏:J. Boroski。

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This, as well as the original J. Boroski in Bangkok, is a collaboration between mixologist Joseph Boroski and interior designer Ashley Sutton. Other than the wildly successful J. Boroski, Sutton has designed quite a few other well-known bars in Bangkok, such as Maggie Choo’s and Iron Fairies, as well as Ophelia which recently opened in Hong Kong.

J. Boroski 是紐約調酒顧問 Joseph Boroski 和澳洲設計師 Ashley Sutton 合作的新酒吧,本來在曼谷有一家,現在開到了香港。Ashley Sutton 在亞洲有不少出名的設計,比如曼谷的 Maggie Choo’s(去過一次,的確是個相當迷幻的空間)和 Iron Fairies,以及在香港剛開幕不久的 Ophelia。

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[Hong Kong 香港] Elephant Grounds

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Elephant Grounds (Wanchai)

Add: 8 Wing Fung St. Wan Chai
Tel: +852 2778 2700
Hours: 8am-10pm
Website: www.elephantgrounds.com
Price: [coffee] 30-68 HKD
Visited: Aug 2016

Occupying this much coveted corner location on Wing Fung Street is Elephant Grounds, a coffee roaster local to Hong Kong. The open store front and warm wooden tones are immediately welcoming, and the interior is equally pleasant with handcrafted furniture by Start from Zero and a custom-made moss wall installation by local plant artist Quest Terrarium. Coffee, anyone?

某天在上環 gough street 逛街時,發現了藏在買手店 Woaw Store 背後 Elephant Grounds。同行的朋友告訴我這家咖啡很不錯,而且冰淇淋三明治非常有名。當天沒時間坐下來,不過幾天後又在灣仔遇見了它。

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There is even a bowl of water for pets at the front, how thoughtful.

灣仔的分店比上環的大了許多,位于星街附近一個熱鬧的街角。開放的門面和溫暖的木頭色都非常吸引人,門口還放了給狗狗們的喝水碗。

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[Hong Kong 香港] Omotesando Koffee

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Omotesando Koffee

Add: 24-25,G/F.,Lee Tung St ,Wanchai, Hong Kong
Tel: +852 2601 3323
Hours: [weekday] 8am-8pm [weekend] 9am-9pm
Website: www.ooo-koffee.com/hongkong.html
Price: [coffee] 40~60 HKD [sweets] 18+ HKD
Visited: Aug 2016

Omotesando Koffee started out as a pop-up shop in Tokyo’s Omotesando district, situated in a tiny, traditional Japanese home. It became famed for its espressos and cube-shaped designs – logo, work station, and even pastries are cube-shaped – that it eventually stayed for 5 years, until the building became too old to sustain the shop. Cafe owner Eiichi Kunimoto then moved it to Toranomon Koffee in Tokyo’s Toranomon Hills, before he expanded to a second Omotesando Koffee in Hong Kong.

香港的第一杯咖啡,在Omotesando Koffee。這家咖啡館的本店設立于東京表參道,據說本來只是家快閃店,沒想到大受歡迎,一開就是5年。本店因爲建築老舊的原因歇業後,主理人國友榮一開了姐妹店 Toranomon Koffee,以及香港灣仔的這家分店。

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The charming surroundings of an old Japanese residential building cannot be replicated in Hong Kong’s Lee Tung Avenue, but just about everything else has been carried over, including Omotesando Koffee’s signature cube design as you can see below.

Omotesando Koffee最明顯的特點就是 “盒子” 主題的設計,從標志、店裝、到甜點,全部都是方塊狀。國友榮一的解釋是:“日本傳統茶道中,泡茶及品嚐的過程都會在一個簡潔場所進行,衝咖啡亦如是,Omotesando Koffee 所提倡的「盒子」概念令我們專注於咖啡。”

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Beans are sourced from the same roaster in Tokyo, and Japanese staff members have been stationed in Hong Kong to ensure the same quality of coffee is served. Omotesando features two house blends, one is a mix of Ethiopian, Brazilian and Indonesian beans with a balanced flavor, and the second is a fruitier blend of Guatemalan and Panama beans.

Omotesando Koffee一部份日本店員常駐香港,提供與東京本店一致的味道,選用咖啡豆也是與日本同樣由小川咖啡室烘焙而成。 根據店員的說法,這裏主打兩款house blend,第一款選用埃塞俄比亞、巴西以及印尼的咖啡豆,味道較平衡;第二款則選用危地馬拉及巴拿馬的咖啡豆,味道較鮮明,果香味比較重。

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[Hong Kong 香港] Grassroots Pantry 豆苗居

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Grassroots Pantry

Add: 108 Hollywood Road, Shengwan, Hong Kong
Tel: +852 2873 3353
Hours: 9am-10:30pm
Website: www.grassrootspantry.com
Price: 150~250 HKD/person
Visited: Aug 2016

My first meal in Hong Kong this time was at Grassroots Pantry, a vegetarian restaurant with one core philosophy: “to create food that heals with the highest culinary standards and using the freshest, most nutrient-dense of sustainable, plant-based ingredients.” That reads like a mouthful, but what it’s basically saying, is that they make healthy food that tastes amazing. And it’s true.

到香港的第一餐,和一位注重養生的朋友相約在上環荷李活道上的 Grassroots Pantry 吃午餐。餐廳的創始人 Peggy Chan 本身是素食者,堅持用 raw food 的烹調方式將營養豐富的食材做成美味料理,不論吃素還是不吃素的朋友都很推薦。

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First, the design. Grassroots Pantry’s interior is bright and airy thanks to the large windows and a lofted ceiling. The combination of light grey cement wall and warm orange couches is lovely, and the plants adorning the space is more than welcome. Above the bar suspends a selection of gorgeous decanter lights from Lee Broom – a personal favorite.

店裏設計清新明亮,淺灰色的水泥牆搭配溫暖的橘紅色沙發,吧台上方吊著好多我喜愛的 Lee Broom 玻璃燈飾,室內養了不少綠色植物,感覺非常好。Grassroots Pantry 似乎是個很受外國人歡迎的地方,餐廳裏過半的客人都不是本地人。

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Word has it that Grassroots Pantry was the first shop in Hong Kong to use acai berry, and their recipes are laden with nutrition-packed ingredients like flaxseed, buckwheat, kohlrabi, cashews, chickpeas, and the likes. They promote “raw foodism”, which is about eating unprocessed and uncooked foods. The cooking process involves sprouting, soaking, fermentation, pickling, dehydration, etc., which is a time-consuming process, all aiming to preserve the maximum amount of nutrients in the food.

據說 Grassroots Pantry 是香港首家引進巴西莓 (Acai Berry) 的店家,也經常使用亞麻籽、荞麥、苤藍、腰果、鷹嘴豆等健康食材。這裡采用 raw food 技巧來處理食材,包括發芽 (sprouting)、浸泡 (soaking)、發酵 (fermentation)、 醃製 (pickling)、風乾 (dehydration) 等。比如,要入菜的種籽必須浸泡于自家榨制的堅果奶中至少8小時使之發芽,讓種籽的營養容易被人體吸收,是費時費力的烹調方法。

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[Hong Kong 香港] The Upper House 奕居

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The Upper House

Add: Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong
Tel: +852 2918 1838
Website: www.upperhouse.com
Price: from 5,000 HKD/night
Visited: Aug 2016

It’s been a while since I last went to Hong Kong, so I couldn’t help but feel a little excited on my flight over – especially knowing that I will be staying at The Upper House. I have heard so much about this hotel and was already quite charmed by it after a lovely lunch at Cafe Gray Deluxe five years ago, so naturally I was looking forward to the stay. 4 days and 3 evenings after, I’m a believer. Let’s see how the experience unfolded.

八月底,去了一趟香港。由于在巴黎這些年幾乎都沒回亞洲,上次到香港玩也是快六年前的事了,去程的飛機上不免有種鄉巴佬要進城的興奮感(是真的)。這次住宿選擇在The Upper House 奕居,四天三夜下來除了滿意還是滿意 - 方便的地點、優雅的設計、舒適的空間、細致的服務,無一不讓人傾心。

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It all started at the airport. Thanks to The Upper House’s limousine service, I didn’t have to wait in the long queue for taxi. I hopped on a Lexus Hibrid (Mercedes also available) and 40 minutes later I was at the hotel. Smooth.

感謝酒店的機場接送服務,不用大排長龍的等出租車。Upper House 用的是 Lexus 混能環保車(也可以選擇Mercedes),車裏設有wifi,連水都很貼心的准備了不容易灑出來的嘴吸裝水瓶。香港小旅行,完美開始。

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The hotel sits on top of Pacific Place, a glossy shopping complex at Admiralty, which is one stop from the Central business district and one stop (across the harbor) from Tsim Sha Tsui, and also within walking distance to Wanchai. Perfect location.

從機場出發一路順暢,和司機先生聊著天,大約40分鍾抵達酒店。Upper House 位于金鍾太古廣場,是港島非常中心的地段,到中環、上環、灣仔都非常近,以地點來說沒有比這裏更方便的了。

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The hotel entrance is cocooned inside a thick wall, entitled “Stone Curtain” by British designer Thomas Heatherwick, a understated yet solid facade that separates the hotel from the outside world. As The Upper House is renovated from an apartment building, its design is unlike that of a traditional five-star hotel – there is no grand lobby, but instead, it feels more like a (very stylish) home. At the reception, hotel service staff are all smiles and know the guests by name.

酒店大門隱藏在石砌厚牆內,低調、隱密、有與外界區隔的安全感。這裡由一棟公寓改造而成,設計上不像傳統的五星級酒店,沒有氣派的大堂,反而更有家的感覺,服務人員也都笑容滿面,叫得出客人的名字。

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[Kyoto 京都] Oimatsu 老松

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Oimatsu 老松

Add: Tenryui-ji, Sagano, Kyoto
Tel: 075-881-9033
Hours: 9am-5pm
Website: www.oimatu.co.jp
Price: 700 yen+
Visited: Aug 2016

The more than hundred-year-old Oimatsu used to be the wagashi (Japanese confectionery) provider for the Japanese imperial family. It has two locations in Kyoto (Arashiyama and Kitano), and was recommended to me by Nao from Bar Bunkyu the night before.

老松是曾經專門提供和菓子給日本天皇的百年老鋪,在京都有兩家分店(嵐山和北野),推薦這家店的是前一天在文久喝酒時認識的調酒師Nao。

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The shop is not huge, but the tables are comfortably distanced. On the left side are floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a beautiful courtyard, and it’s quite lovely to be eating wagashi with this as the backdrop.

店內空間不大,不過桌椅間隔距離寬敞;左邊大片的玻璃窗外有個小庭院,邊吃著和菓子邊看著窗外的景致,也太美好。

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[Kyoto] Bar Bunkyu バー文久

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Bar Bunkyu バー文久 

Add: KawaramachiSanjo, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto
Tel: 075-211-1982
Hours: 6pm~ (closed on Thu))
Price: ~1000 yen/drink
Visited: Aug 2016

After dinner, we made our way to Bunkyu, a bar hidden in one of the alleyways of the Kawaramachi district.

晚飯之後,我們在昏暗的小巷子裏找到了這家名爲文久的隱秘酒吧。

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Upon passing through the sliding door, I was surprised to find how small the bar is. Under the dim lighting, I could roughly see a roundish square wooden bar top that seats no more than 9, and we were lucky to take up the last few empty spots.

緩緩的推開拉門,發現這個酒吧真的非常小。昏暗的燈光下隱約可以看到一個方方圓圓的木制吧台,圍繞著的座位僅能容納9個人,而我們很幸運的坐到了店內剩下的唯一幾個位子。

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The bartender in charge here is Nao, a friendly guy who’s fun to chat with, and very generous in sharing his knowledge of Kyoto and beyond (he recommended a few places for us in Arashiyama which we ended up visiting, and all were excellent).

店裏的擔當名爲直(Nao),是位笑容可掬的調酒師,整晚和我們聊的非常開心,還給我們推薦岚山不少好地方。他給我看了自己標滿餐廳酒吧的Google Map,看來真的非常喜歡吃喝(忍不住想和他握手)。

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And isn’t this little red-robed man a cutie? Nao mentioned that it’s a hobby of the bar owner to collect these dolls.

話說這個小人偶非常搶鏡,太可愛了。據Nao說,收集這種小玩偶是文久酒吧老板的嗜好。

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[Kyoto] Hirokawa 廣川

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うなぎ屋廣川 Unagiya Hirokawa

Add: 44-1 Sagatenryuji Kitatsukurimicho, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto
Tel: 075-871-5226
Hours: 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-8pm (closed on Mon)
Website: unagi-hirokawa.jp
Price: 3000 yen+
Visited: Aug 2016

Unagiya Hirokawa is a unagi-specialty restaurant located in Arashiyama, steps away from the famed Tenryu-ji Temple. There is a perpetual line outside this one-Michelin starred restaurant – we arrived just after 11:30am to find ourselves behind a long queue, and eventually waited 1.5 hours before we got seated. Was it worth the wait? Yes, but I think next time I will book in advance by paying a 1,000 yen reservation fee…

中午,到うなぎ屋廣川吃鳗魚飯。才剛過11:30,門口卻已大排長龍,最後我們等了一個半小時才得以入內。值得嗎?太值得了(反正也熱到無法在外走動)。廣川人氣居高不下的原因,除了它有米其林一星以及食べログ關西區鳗魚飯第一名的評價之外,位于天龍寺旁的地點非常方便,很多遊客都會慕名而來。其實後來發現只要支付1000日元的預約費就可以事先訂位,大家可以參考一下。

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Here’s the Unagyu Set (3,900 yen), composed of the unagi rice plus a few side dishes. Hirokawa uses eels farmed in Japan, which are priced for their superior texture and flavor, and grills them with a secrete recipe sauce passed down from over 170 years ago. The eel is delicate, fatty just to the right extent, in combination with the sweet and savory sauce and  perfectly cooked rice…just wow.

總而言之,我們等了一個半小時後坐了下來,二話不說點了うな重定食(3,900日幣)。先來說說鳗魚飯本身。廣川采用的是日本國産養殖鳗魚,相較台灣或著菲律賓産的鳗魚價格較高,而且搭配的醬料配方據說已經有170年的曆史。細嫩肥美的鳗魚、甘甜不膩的醬汁、搭配粒粒分明的米飯,完美融合的實在太、好、吃、了。雖然我平時非常討厭等位,不過一口鳗魚飯下去後,立刻覺得剛才的等待都是值得的。

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[Kyoto] Kasagiya かさぎ屋

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かさぎ屋 Kasagiya

Add: 349 Masuyacho Higashiyamaku, Kyoto
Tel: 075-561-9562
Hours: 11am – 6pm
Price: 500-800 yen
Visited: Aug 2016

かさぎ屋 Kasagiya is a famous traditional Japanese dessert shop in Kyoto, but most people who don’t come looking for it would probably miss its low-key facade, tucked away in a corner on the Ninzenzaka. I overslept from my afternoon nap (oops) and by the time I reached there, it was only 10 minutes before their closing time (oh no!). I popped my head in as most of the guests were just leaving, giving the shop owner an apologetic look and inquired whether they were still serving. He seemed slightly hesitant initially, but seeing that I was alone (and obviously very eager), he gave an approving nod and ushered me in. Yesss.

二年坂上的かさぎ屋其實是個甜點名店,不過不知情的人應該會直接忽略掉它低調的門面吧。因爲午覺睡過頭的原因(羞),我抵達かさぎ屋時距離它關門只有10分鍾。探頭進去,店裏的客人都准備要離開了,老板有些爲難的跟我說,”我們快要關門了,沒關系嗎?啊,一個人啊…好的,那麽請進來吧“。噢,所謂的人品大爆發。

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Kasagiya was established in 1914, and for over a hundred years it’s been known for its artisanal, delicate Kyoto specialty desserts. The space is small, just enough to accommodate about 20 guests, and the nostalgic charm oozing out from every corner is quite mesmerizing.

かさぎ屋創立于1914年,是家曆史悠久的百年老店,一直以精心制作的京都特色甜品出名。空間不大,只能容納四、五組客人;店面雖然簡單,不過處處流露的歲月感非常迷人。

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Kasagiya is especially famed for its adzuki beans, cooked fresh everyday for over 3 hours in the traditional method until the beans are perfectly soft without losing its shape. The two desserts incorporating adzuki beans – the botamochi (made with sweet rice and sweet adzuki paste) and the Kyoto zenzai (adzuki bean soup with roasted mochi) seem to be the two most popular choices.

かさぎ屋最出名的似乎是他們每天用爐竈烹煮3小時以上的紅豆,用其做的三色荻餅和紅豆年糕湯都是人氣商品。

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