Kanazawa, April 2019.
金澤，2019年4月。
If you are looking for a fun side trip from Tokyo on your next trip to Japan, consider Kanazawa. Just a short 2.5-hour Shinkansen train ride from the capital, Kanazawa is famous for its historic charm (some call it little Kyoto), gold leaf-covered ice-cream, and an excellent contemporary art museum amongst other things. Here’s our 3-day itinerary for your reference.
從東京搭新幹線只要2.5小時就能抵達的金澤，有著如京都般迷人的古都氛圍、令人雙眼發光的金箔冰淇淋、讓相機拍不停的21世紀美術館…三天兩夜小旅行，吃喝玩樂住的一切細節，都紀錄在這里。
【Day 1】
12:00…Lunch at Tawara 午餐
3:00pm…D. T. Suzuki Museum 鈴木大拙館
5:00pm…Nagamachi Samurai District 長町武家屋敷跡
7:00pm…Dinner at PLAT Home 晚餐
Tawara
It was already noon time when we reached Kanazawa, so we went straight to lunch at Tawara. Born and raised in Kanazawa, chef Tawara has spent many years honing his culinary skills in Provence, Périgord, and Kyoto before returning to his hometown in 2012 to open the eponymous restaurant.
抵達金澤已經中午，直接前往午餐地點 – Tawara。主廚俵徹也先生（Tawara 是 “俵” 的日語發音）是土生土長的金澤人，在法國普羅旺斯、佩里格（Périgord）、以及京都的名店修業多年後，於2012年回到自己的家鄉，在古色古香的街道上開了這樣一家小小法式餐廳。
Tawara is as Japanese as it is French. The techniques are inevitably French, but the ingredients are mostly local seasonal produce, presented in beautiful tableware created by Japanese artisans.
雖說是法式餐廳，但 Tawara 多了日式的纖細。料理用的大多都是當地的季節食材，器皿也都由日本職人手工打造。
We chose the 6-course lunch set, which turned out to be refreshing and pleasant like a soft Spring breeze. Here are a few dishes for reference:
我們選了 3800 日元的 6 道式午間套餐。擺盤簡單美麗、風味清爽怡人，這幾道供參考：
Firefly squid, onion, cheese
螢烏賊、洋蔥、起司
Snow peas, sakura shrimp, tomato, orange mayonnaise
荷蘭豆、櫻花蝦、番茄、橘子蛋黃醬
Black pork, mountain vegetable puree, Italian vinegar
黑豬、山菜泥、義大利醋
Apricot ice-cream, marinated strawberries, adzuki beans, meringue
杏子冰淇淋、漬草莓、紅豆、蛋白霜
What a little gem, discovered thanks to a friend’s recommendation. The restaurant is quite small, reservations (available via website below) are highly recommended.
對於能吃到這一餐感到幸運 – 要不是熟人推薦，自己也找不到這家餐廳。Tawara 位子很少，有意前往請先訂位。
Tawara
Add：石川県金沢市片町2-10-19
Website：tawara-kanazawa.jp
Price：[lunch] 3800-7300 yen, [dinner] 7300-9800 yen
D. T. Suzuki Museum 鈴木大拙館
After lunch, a visit to the D. T. Suzuki Museum. Born in 1870 in Kanazawa, D. T. Suzuki was a philosopher who devoted his life to the studies of Buddhism and Zen, and was instrumental in spreading interest in these studies to the West. His museum, designed by architect Yoshio Taniguchi, is located within a quiet residential neighborhood – an unusual placement for museums, but rather fitting for a contemplative space as such.
午飯後，前往鈴木大拙館。鈴木大拙是名列20世紀初期的重要禪學家，1870 年出身於金澤，一生鑽研於佛法、禪學、以及東洋哲學研究。建築師谷口吉生為他打造了這樣一個引人思考的紀念館，館址選在清靜的居民區之中。通過循序漸進的通道、光影的引導，讓人心自然而然地沉澱。
“The truth of Zen, just a little bit of it, is what turns one’s humdrum life, a life of monotonous, uninspiring commonplaceness, into one of art, full of genuine inner creativity.” – D. T. Suzuki
“感情達到最高潮時，人就會默不作聲，因為任何語言都是不適當的。” – 鈴木大拙
No photos are allowed in the interiors, so I can only share a few snapshots of the outdoor Water Mirror Garden with you. In any case, it would be difficult to convey the ambience of this space with words and pictures, so please do visit in person if you find yourself in Kanazawa.
室內禁止拍照，只能分享室外的水鏡之庭給你。氛圍難以用文字傳遞，要親身體驗才能明白…到金澤的話，請不要錯過。
D. T. Suzuki Museum 鈴木大拙館
Add：石川県金沢市本多町 3-4-20
Website：www.kanazawa-museum.jp
Price：300 yen
Nagamachi Samurai District 長町武家屋敷跡
Then, a casual stroll through Nagamachi Samurai District, where samurai and their families used to reside. Though now converted to a residential neighborhood, the area still preserves a historic atmosphere with its earthen walls, narrow lanes and water canals.
散步到長町的轉折處內，有加賀籓重臣八人之中兩人的屋敷留存，是當時中上階級武士的居住地。雖然現已改為民間住宅的面貌，但狹窄的小路、土牆、長屋門等建築遺跡還是被完整地保存下來，不入內參觀也能感受到歷史的痕跡。
The small alleys are also filled with interesting stores. SLK room accessories, for example, is a quaint little shop selling second hand furniture and knickknacks collected from Europe.
附近的小街小道里還有一些有趣的商店，比如這家 SLK room accessories，有店主從歐洲各地搜集來的雜貨，很好逛。
SKLO room accessories
Add：石川県金沢市香林坊2丁目12-35
Hours：11am-7pm（closed on Wed）
PLAT Home
Our day concluded with dinner at PLAT Home. Its two co-owners were high school classmates, one is passionate about cooking, the other about vintage furniture, so the two collaborated to convert this 110-year-old storage into a cozy, stylish izakaya restaurant.
晚餐，在溫馨的 PLAT Home。兩位店主岡川透和吉田洋輔是高中同學，岡川傾心於做料理，吉田則喜歡跟古董傢具打交道，於是兩人決定合作，將這座有著110年歷史的日式倉庫改造成為以和食為基礎的創作料理餐廳。
As to why the restaurant is called “PLAT Home”, the pronunciation is similar to “platform” (of a train station) in Japanese, which conveys the owners’ wish to create a space where people meet and collide.
之所以取名為 “PLAT Home”，是因為跟日語發音的 “月臺（Platform）” 很像。他們希望如同月臺一般，讓不同的人在這間餐廳相遇、聚集…
The dishes are small plates meant to be shared between two or three people. I was pleased by all the seafood dishes we ordered – nothing out of this world, but tasty and comforting like the ambience of the restaurant.
料理分量很小，不妨多點道來嚐嚐。當晚我們吃到的海鮮料理都不錯，不是驚為天人的美味，但就像餐廳名字里 “home” 一樣，有著像家一般熟悉溫暖的感覺。
Seaweed, tuna, avocado
海藻、鮪魚、酪梨
Roasted duck salad
涼拌烤鴨肉
Fried fugu
炸河豚
Mackerel over rice
鰹魚蓋飯
On the evening of our visit, the restaurant was abuzz with locals and visitors alike. It certainly seems like PLAT Home has made a name for itself well beyond the boundary of this old city.
會知道這家餐廳，多虧台北昭和食堂老闆介紹。令人意外地是店裡有很多外國人，看來這家餐廳的名字在國外已傳開了。
PLAT Home
Add：石川県 金沢市 彥三町 1-3-4
Website：https://www.instagram.com/plat_home
Price：4000-5000 yen/person