Though we barely left the hotel during our two days in Yufuin due to the pouring rain, we still managed to find a few good bites on our short excursions. Here are three worth sharing with you:
在由布院的這兩天，雖然因為大雨所以放棄了很多行程（金鱗湖連半眼都沒瞄到…），但還是去了幾家很不錯的店，這三家值得分享給你：
1/ Sabo Tenjo Sajiki 茶房 天井棧敷
Sabo Tenjo Sajiki, operated by one of Yufuin’s top three onsen ryokan “Kamenoi”, is a cafe renovated from an old wine cellar. Our original plan was actually to have lunch at Yunotakean (also by Kamenoi), but as it was completely full for the day, we turned next door to Tenjo Sajiki. While waiting for our table, we did a bit of shopping at its affiliated boutique Kagiya, which has a really lovely selection of local snacks and goods.
天井棧敷是一間由老酒窖改造而成的咖啡館，由由布院頂級溫泉旅館、“御三間” 其中一所 “龜之井” 所開設。原本的午餐計劃是去“山家料理 湯の岳庵”（同樣也隸屬龜之井），不過因為當日已滿席而不得不放棄，而就在隔壁的天井棧敷雖然也客滿，但至少能夠侯位，等待的時間剛好可以到一樓的選物店 “鍵屋” 逛逛買買。
The interior of Sabo Tenjo Sajiki is dimly lit with a stylish vintage vibe. Every window and lamp seem to have their own stories…
店內光線幽暗，空間陳設有時光倒流的復古感。每扇窗戶、每盞小燈，都特別有味道。
The cafe is most popular for its coffee and house-made desserts, but since we haven’t had lunch yet, we started with the savories. Though the selection wasn’t huge, each dish we ordered was delicious, starting with this shiso pesto pasta.
由於離金鱗湖很近，很多人會在逛完湖畔後來喝杯咖啡休息片刻。我們因為還未吃午餐，所以先點了幾道鹹食，選擇不多，但樣樣美味。首先是紫蘇青醬義大利麵。
Red wine-braised beef, served with bread.
紅酒燉牛肉，搭配麵包。
Left: katsu (fried pork cutlet) sandwich, right: house blend black coffee with cheese cake.
左：炸豬排三明治、右：House Blend黑咖啡和起司蛋糕。
Savories, sweets, and coffee all on point. The service was quite attentive as well, the waiter carefully stored away our stroller and seated us in a quiet corner on the second floor where we could have our little nook to recover from the heavy rain…
鹹食、甜點、和咖啡都非常到位。服務也頗為細致，幫我們收妥了嬰兒推車，並為安排了不會影響到其他客人的閣樓位子，讓飢腸轆轆而且被大雨淋濕的我們有了自己安靜的小角落能慢慢回神。
Sabo Tenjo Sajiki 茶房 天井棧敷
Add 地址： 2633-1 Yufuincho Kawakami, Yufu, Oita
Price 價位：sweets 476 yen+, coffee 571 yen+, savories 1300 yen+ 甜點476日幣+、咖啡571日幣+、鹹食1300日幣+
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2/ Murata Fusho-an / Murata 不生庵
Murata Fusho-an is a soba specialty restaurant operated by another one of Yufuin’s top onsen ryokan, Murata. The location is about a 25-minute walk / 7-minute drive from Kinrin Lake, up on a quiet hill of its own. The vibe is calm and casual, with soothing green views out its windows.
Murata不生庵是由由布院另外一家御三間 “無量塔” 所開設的蕎麥麵店，地點距離熱鬧的金鱗湖步行25分鐘/開車7分鐘的距離，位於山崖旁的小面館，環境幽靜，一眼望出去綠意盎然。
The specialty of the shop is black pork soba, with fatty pork belly braised so soft they disintegrate at the chopsticks, accompanied by fragrant soba noodles bathing in a soup base that’s flavorful without being too rich.
店裡的招牌是黑豚蕎麥面，黑豚五花肉部位滷得軟嫩入味，湯頭也鮮美不膩口，蕎麥麵的香氣與顆粒感很不錯。
The ooyako-don (chicken and egg over rice) and soba ice-cream were also delectable.
另外加點的親子丼和蕎麥冰淇淋也讓人滿意。
After lunch, we strolled by Murata’s select shop Shoho Zosetsu, where I found some beautiful ceramic ware to bring home, and, at the recommendations of another guest who was at the shop, bought a jar of mustard seeds in soy sauce, which turned out to be an excellent accompaniment for pork and lamb dishes.
Murata has a large collection of shops, including “b-speak” for cakes, “theomurata” for chocolates, “the theo” for coffee, “artegio” for art…just be sure to check their operation hours before visiting as they are not open on a daily basis.
順帶一提，無量塔也有自己的選物店 “匠鋪藏拙”，我在這里買到了自己喜愛的杯盤，還被現場一位熟客推薦了醬油漬芥末籽，帶回家配豬肉、羊肉類料理真的超絕。
旅館另外還有蛋糕店 “b-speak”、巧克力專賣店 “theomurata”、咖啡廳 “the theo”、美術館 “artegio” 等…一系列品牌，有時間的話可以一家家吃/逛過去。（但要注意營業時間，免得撲空。）
Murata Fusho-an / Murata 不生庵
Add 地址：1266-18 Yufuincho Kawakami, Yufu, Oita
Price 價位：Pork soba 1870yen, Oyako-don set 2250 yen / 黑豚蕎麥1870日幣、親子丼套餐2250日幣
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3/ Yufumabushi Shin 由布まぶし 心
Yufumabushi Shin is one of the most famous restaurants in Yufuin, famed for its “mabushi” clay pot rice. Every time I see something lauded as “must eat”, I hesitate…Is it a tourist trap? Is the queue going to be unbearably long? Fortunately the wait for dinner turned out to be only about 15 minutes during our visit, and the flavors were quite decent indeed.
Note: The lunch queue is likely to be longer due to day trippers, so if you are staying overnight at Yufuin, it might be a better idea to come for dinner instead.
“由布まぶし 心”（Yufumabushi Shin）是在由布院非常出名的和牛土鍋飯，被稱為由布院 “必吃美食”。老實說每次看到某某料理被譽為 “必吃” 都讓我有點退縮，一方面擔心是騙觀光客的，一方面擔心要排隊排到天荒地老。但總之，在由布院的第二晚還是來這里吃飯了，而且驚喜地發現等待時間只有15分鐘左右，而且味道的確不錯呢。
註：午餐的隊伍應該會因為一日游的客人而更長，如果住在由布院的話，建議晚上來。
There are three clay pot rice options at Yufumabushi Shin – beef, chicken, and eel, all come with appetizers, pickles, and miso soup. The most popular is undoubtedly the one made with Bungo beef, local to Kyushu’s Oita prefecture. It is recommended to first try the beef clay pot rice as is, then add a bit of yuzu kosho or pickles, and finally, with dashi. The texture of the beef itself was not especially impressive, but overall the flavors were satisfying. I’d say skip this restaurant if the line is too long, but if it’s only a short wait, it’s not a bad choice as one of your meals at Yufuin.
由布まぶし 心做的是土鍋蓋飯，入店等位時就能看到灶爐上一排排的土鍋飯正在烹煮著，香氣撲鼻。主餐有三個選擇 – 豐後牛、地雞、鰻魚，套餐都有包括季節前菜、土鍋蓋飯、漬物和味噌湯。最出名的就是用大分縣產的豐後牛所做的和牛飯，一鍋有三種吃法：先嚐原味，再配上柚子胡椒、小菜等，最後淋上高湯。牛肉的肉質本身不能說讓人有多驚艷，但總體來說的確不錯，搭配這三種吃法是豐富的。令我印象深刻的是這里的柚子胡椒，辣度和清爽風味都很過癮，我們現場就買了一罐帶回家。
Yufumabushi Shin Kinrin Lake 由布まぶし「心」金鱗湖本店
Add 地址：1492-1 Yufuincho Kawakami, Yufu, Oita
Price 價位：Beef rice set 2453 yen (cash only) / 豐後牛土鍋飯套餐 2453 日幣（僅收現金）
Yufumabushi Shin Yufuin Station 由布まぶし 心 湯布院駅前支店
Add 地址：5-3 Yufuincho Kawakita, Yufu, Oita
Price 價位：Beef rice set 2453 yen (cash only) 豐後牛土鍋飯套餐 2453 日幣（僅收現金）
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Lastly, you may want to check out COMICO ART MUSEUM, where there is a sizable installation of Yoshitomo Nara’s famed dog sculpture amongst other contemporary art pieces. Incidentally, the building itself, like KAI Yufuin, was designed by Kengo Kuma. Unfortunately we couldn’t make it because we didn’t reserve a ticket online and it was completely full by the time we arrived, so be sure to RSVP online if you are interested in visiting.
Next stop, follow us to Aso.
在由布院的最後，還想推薦大家去可以看到奈良美智的狗狗的 COMICO ART MUSEUM 現代美術館。這棟建築和界 由布院一樣是由隈研吾所設計的，一開始就在我的行程規劃內，不過當時因為抓不準Em的午睡時間，沒事先預約門票所以最終沒能看成，有興趣去的人一定要現在官網上購票。
下一站，前往阿蘇的草原 🌿。