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Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire
Add: 480 Jian Guo West Road, Shanghai
Tel: (021) 5466 9928
Hours: 7am-10pm
Price: [lunch] 298-358 RMB+10% [dinner] 800RMB+
Visited: Jan 2019
Compared to its light-hearted lunch, dinner at Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire is usually quite a formal affair with more complex dishes – not my usual go-to spot as I generally prefer casual meals. I do, however, make exceptions for special occasions like their Black Truffle Menu collaboration with 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana last month.
相較午餐而言，Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire 的晚餐菜色繁複，氣氛正式，喜歡輕松的我其實不常光顧…除非有特殊場合，比如上個月他們和上海 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana 主廚 Riccardo La Perna 聯手的黑松露品嚐套餐。
First, a little blurb on truffles. These prized fungi can be categorized into winter white truffles (the most rare and extremely expensive), winter black truffles (less rare than white truffles but still expensive), and summer black truffles (can be found in more abundance and are often processed to make truffle sauce etc.). This particular 4-hand dinner is centered around winter black truffle (a.k.a. Tuber Melanosporum), and its unique aroma hit me right as I stepped into the dining room…
先來一段小科普。松露分爲冬季白松露（最稀少且極爲昂貴），冬季黑松露（産量比白松露多但仍價格不菲），以及夏季黑松露（産量較多，常被做成松露醬等副産品）。這次餐會用的是新鮮冬季黑松露（Tuber Melanosporum），一踏入餐廳，那獨特的香氣撲鼻而來…
Chef Riccardo La Perna from 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana
Chef Romain Chapel from Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire
Dinner started with Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire’s seaweed jelly and baby turnips, shellfish seasoned with onion jus, green apple and cucumber, ricotta and crispy lotus roots, piquant salad – a light and refreshing starter, and the only dish of the evening that came without truffles.
晚宴從一道 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire 的清爽前菜開始（也是當晚唯一一道沒有松露的菜）：海藻凍、小圓蘿蔔、貝類、青蘋果、黃瓜、乳清奶酪、香脆藕片、開胃沙拉。
The second dish is 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana’s Australian Mayura wagyu beef tataki. Australian Mayura wagyu is also known as “chocolate wagyu” as parts of the cows’ diet includes milk chocolate and hazelnuts, resulting in a unique sweetness, hint of nuttiness and buttery texture. Riccardo seasoned the Mayura wagyu beef tataki with white balsamic vinegar dressing and fresh winter black truffle, the combination is simply to die for.
第二道是來自 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana 的澳洲 Mayura 和牛薄片。澳洲 Mayura 和牛又稱 “巧克力和牛”，因爲他們在進入第30個月的肥育期時會開始被餵食牛奶巧克力、榛果等，因此肌紋開始生出油花，甜度增高。Riccardo 將珍貴的 Mayura 和牛微微炙烤過後配上白酒醋汁和冬季黑松露，那肉質柔軟又濃郁，令人銷魂。
From Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire: Hokkaido scallop mousseline, celeriac/artichoke/cuttlefish, fresh winter black truffle. Though it came after the incredibly tender and flavorful Mayura wagyu beef, the natural sweetness of the Hokkaido scallops was no less tempting.
Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire：北海道扇貝慕斯、芹根/洋薊/目魚、冬季黑松露。雖然跟在 Mayura 和牛之後，北海道扇貝的鮮甜仍然毫不失色，十分迷人。
8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana：handmade tagliatelle, parmigiano, fresh winter black truffle. Riccardo made a classic pasta using semolina and egg yolk, then cooked it in an aromatic stock of cauliflower, hazelnuts etc so that its flavor both matches and is enhanced by that of the winter black truffle. Probably the most memorable pasta I’ve had in a while!
8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana：手工義大利麵、帕瑪森奶酪、冬季黑松露。Riccardo 用杜蘭粗粒小麥粉（semolina）和蛋黃制成手工義大利麵，放在用花椰菜、榛果等食材炖煮而成的清湯裏煮熟，讓麵條的風味和冬季黑松露的香氣相輔相成。這是近期內吃到最美味的義大利麵了，最後一滴醬汁都不舍得剩下。
Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire: truffled duck pie, chicory leave with grapefruit, red cabbage marmalade – la pièce de résistance of the evening. This traditional French dish, “pithivier de canard”, is duck meat and innards wrapped with puff pastry, baking this to perfection requires quite some experience and skills.
Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire：法式黑松露鴨肉派、玉蘭菜、西柚、紅卷心菜醬，算是當晚的壓軸菜了。這道法國傳統的 pithivier de canard，做法是將鴨肉、內臟雜碎等以酥餅面皮包裹後烤制，火候要拿捏的准，非常考驗功力和經驗。
Romain first presented the baked duck pie in its entirety with a glistening puff pastry exterior, before slicing it into parts. What’s inside: duck meat that’s still pink (though I personally would prefer it to be even rarer), unctuous foie gras, and winter black truffle. Even better with duck jus sauce served on the side.
Romain 將烤好的鴨肉派端上桌，外表油亮，看起來十分誘人。切開上盤時方可看見裏面的內容：略帶粉嫩的鴨肉（不過個人偏好再生一點）、入口即化的肥肝、以及這次的主角冬季黑松露。嚐起來外酥內香，加上一點肉醬汁更增風味。
To go along with the duck pie: tamarillo sorbet, red port and red wine reduction, green mango salt and chili.
搭配鴨肉派的樹番茄冰霜、濃縮紅甜酒、青芒果、辣椒。
Lastly, the dessert from Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire’s pastry chef Clement Ayache: tarte soufflé with fresh winter black truffle, orange syrup, lamb’s lettuce with icing sugar. It looked substantial in quantity but was light on the stomach as it’s mostly airy soufflé, and yes even the dessert came donned in copious amounts of black truffle…
最後，是來自 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire 甜點主廚 Clement Ayache 的舒芙蕾塔、橙子醬、野苣、以及冬季黑松露。看起來分量結實，不過主要是輕盈蓬松的舒芙蕾，吃起來負擔不大。是的，連甜點也豪邁地配上了黑松露…
A truly delicious meal, but this black truffle feast is unfortunately (or fortunately) not a regular menu at either Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire or 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana. The lovely lunch at Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire which I recommended last time, however, is indeed available everyday, do pick a sunny day to give it a try.
極致美味的一餐，不過這樣的冬季黑松露飨宴畢竟不是每天都有，可遇不可求（話說回來也無法天天這樣吃…）。In the mean while，之前推薦過的 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire 美味午餐天天有，找個明亮的日子，去吃頓好心情吧！
Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire
地址：上海市建國西路480號
電話：（021）5466 9928
營業時間：7am-10pm
價位：午餐298-358元+10%，晚餐800元+
造訪日期：2019年1月