Fu He Hui 福和慧
Add: 1037 Yuyuan Lu, near Jiangsu Lu
Tel: 3980 9188
Hours: 11am-2pm, 5:30-11pm
Price: 380-880 RMB/person
Visited: Apr 2016
福和慧 – Fu (fortune), He (harmony), Hui (wisdom) – is the fine dining vegetarian restaurant by Fang Yuan and Tony Lu, who have established a solid reputation through their Fu series (Fu 1039, Fu 1088, and Fu 1055), all sharing a penchant of refined Shanghainese dishes in nostalgic old villas. Fu He Hui has also been attracting its fair share of attention since opening in 2015, and is ranked #19 on the latest Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.
美國來玩的朋友說想去吃一頓精致的中國菜,最近正好看到福和慧在今年 “亞洲50佳餐廳” 排名第19,又有不少朋友推薦,于是就把晚餐訂在這裏了。說福和慧是家素菜館,可不是一般的素菜館。這裏的老板早在幾年前就打造了一系列非常出名的 “福” 餐廳,旗下有福1039,1088,和1015。這幾家我先後都去過,雖然是好幾年前的事了,不過對這些洋房裏的精致上海菜印象一直不錯,有朋友來上海玩,不要求環境的我會帶去老吉士,要求環境的話就去福。
The vegetarian restaurant offers a few prix fixe menus at three different price points: 380, 680 and 880 RMB per person, all coming with 8 courses. We decided to try one of the two 880 RMB sets to see what the chef has got in his repertoire.
第一次來到福和慧,發現這裏的風格和其他福餐廳很不一樣,沒有繁複雕琢的裝飾,整個空間和內裝都線條簡潔,頗有禅意。菜單上簡單的列了幾種套膳選擇,價位380、680、和880,其中880的有兩套。我們選了880元的其中一個,就坐著等吃了。
First, a pot of 奇丹 Qi Dan (188 RMB), a famous varietal of Oolong tea from Wuyi.
服務員推薦下了一壺奇丹,聽說這是來自武夷的上等岩茶。順帶一提,服務員飄逸感十足的白色制服好好看啊,可惜忘了拍給你們看。
Dinner started with two amuse bouche. The first: roast potato with pumpkin and micro coriander.
開胃小點,第一個是烤土豆和南瓜泥。
The second: thin wafers sandwiching chestnut paste.
後方的是薄脆餅夾心栗子泥。
First course: a flower pot of organic greens, carrot, quinoa, and green soy bean. Cute presentation, though the green soy bean mousse was under-seasoned for my palate, and proportion a bit off – too much mousse, and too little quinoa for texture.
套膳第一道:花盆。有機綠葉和紅蘿蔔下面是毛豆慕斯和藜麥,造型非常可愛,不過個人覺得毛豆慕斯的調味稍爲少了些,略顯平淡。
Second course: soup of winter bamboo shoot with morel mushroom, seaweed, and miso. Clean and clear.
第二道:冬筍。清澈的湯裏有 morel 野菇、海藻、和味噌。舒舒服服清清爽爽的一道湯品。
Third course: crispy tofu skin wrapping avocado puree, and stir-fried eggplant.
第三道:腐皮。薄脆的腐皮卷著牛油果泥,旁邊搭配的是茄子。
Fourth course: termite mushroom with soybean sprouts, covered in red pepper foam. Nice crunchy texture from the mushrooms and soybean sprouts, excellent flavor too – a highlight of the evening.
第四道:雞枞菌。這是目前吃到最喜歡的一道菜,雞枞菌和豆芽的味道和口感都非常好,上面覆蓋的一層紅椒泡沫也增添了有趣的風味。
Fifth course: tartlet with onion, egg, purple sweet potato, pumpkin. Beautiful colors, less memorable in taste.
第五道:洋蔥酥,裏面除了有洋蔥外還有、蛋、紫薯、和南瓜。顔色非常漂亮的一個塔,不過味道就不怎麽令人印象深刻了。
Sixth course: porcini mushroom, smoke, sea salt, mushroom gel, shallot. Too smoky for my personal preference, otherwise a fine dish.
第六道:牛肝菌。牛肝菌似乎是先撒了海鹽烤過後放在罐子裏煙熏,上桌時搭配蘑菇膠和紅蔥。牛肝菌脆脆有嚼勁的口感很棒,不過這個煙熏味對我個人來說實在重了點。。
Seventh course: chestnut, sticky rice, turnip, black truffle. Mesmerizing flavors coming from each of the ingredients, including fragrance from the lotus leaf wrapping. Hands down my favorite dish of the evening.
第七道:栗子飯。包裹在荷葉裏蒸的栗子糯米飯,裏面還夾雜著蘿蔔和黑松露,香氣撲鼻,是我今晚最喜歡的一道。
Eighth course: black sesame, chocolate mousse, white sesame pudding.
第八道:芝麻。黑芝麻脆,搭配巧克力慕斯和白芝麻布丁。雖是巧克力慕斯,但吃起來一點也不厚重或過甜,不錯。
To finish, a walnut cookie and a black truffle chocolate truffle, both lovely.
飯後甜點:核桃酥和黑松露巧克力。都好吃。
One pleasant surprise upon receiving our check was that we got a discount (minus 100 RMB for every 300 RMB), so the bill came to be a little less than 1400 RMB for two people instead of the original 2000 RMB – but I forgot to ask if this is an ongoing thing or a short-term promotion, do check when you call to make a reservation. Dinner at Fu He Hui was a satisfying if not wowing meal, and interesting enough to lure me back again to try one of their other sets.
這次初訪福和慧嘗到的菜品做的的確用心精致,一頓飯吃下來非常舒服,雖然沒覺得有排到亞洲第19(話說回來這種排名本來就不知道到底怎麽排出來的),不過還是夠有趣到會讓我想來再試一次,加上身邊不少懂吃的朋友都很推薦這家餐廳,讓我非常好奇是否別的套膳會更加出色。最後結賬時發現居然有滿300減100的優惠,倒是一個驚喜。忘了問這是不是最近才有的活動,若有興趣的話訂位時可以先問清楚。
福和慧
地址:愚園路1037號
電話:3980 9188
營業時間:11am-2pm, 5:30-11pm
價位:套餐380-880元/人
造訪:2016年4月