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Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire
Add: 480 Jian Guo West Road, Shanghai
Tel: (021) 5466 9928
Hours: 7am-10pm
Price: [lunch] 298-358 RMB+10% [dinner] 800RMB+
Visited: Jan 2019
One of my favorite lunch spots in Shanghai in the past few month has been Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire at the Capella Hotel. Even though I thought the restaurant quite delicious as early as it opened back in July 2017, it wasn’t until the latest two visits that I became a genuine fan.
最近幾個月在上海最喜歡的午餐地點之一,是建業里嘉佩樂酒店的 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire。餐廳在2017年7月開幕不久後我就去嘗鮮了,初訪時雖然也覺得好吃,但真正被 ”打動“ 是最近兩次的事。
The restaurant is under French master chef Pierre Gagnaire, who has garnered no less than 17 Michelin stars all throughout the world. Though he himself can’t physically be in Shanghai to oversee everything, he has installed his protégés Romain Chapel as the executive chef and Clement Ayache as the pastry chef.
餐廳挂名的是全球擁有17顆米其林星星的法國名廚 Pierre Gagnaire,他老人家雖然平時不在上海,但安排了跟隨自己多年的得意門生 Romain Chapel 來擔任行政總廚以及 Clement Ayache 做甜點主廚。
Romain Chapel was born into a culinary family. His late father Alain Chapel was one of the most influential French chefs of his time, and even Pierre Gagnaire has passed through his Michelin Three Star establishment in Lyon. Things came a full circle of sorts when Romain started working for Pierre Gagnaire in 2012, and has since then been instrumental in a few of the grand chef’s establishments.
Romain Chapel 出身于烹饪世家,他的先父 Alain Chapel 當年是法國最出名的大廚之一,連 Pierre Gagnaire 也曾在他的三星米其林餐廳裏磨練過。這緣分也很奇妙,Romain 後來又遇上了 Pierre Gagnaire,自2012年開始前後在這位摘星名廚的數個餐廳裏擔當起重要角色。
Romain came to Shanghai in 2017 to open Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire, cooking “simple, honest, and elegant French cuisine” – classic dishes re-imagined with creativities in both the ingredients and techniques.
Romain 于2017年來到上海,開始在 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire 做起 “簡單、誠實、優雅的法國料理“。菜色屬經典,但通過食材的巧思以及烹飪手法的創新,給客人們帶來意料之外的驚喜。
As a hotel restaurant, Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire offers everything from breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, to dinner, but my personal favorite time to come is lunch. The beautiful space is filled with an abundance of natural light, and – if the season is correct – the windows are wide open to let in the cool breeze and the fragrance of roses planted right outside. Just sitting there is a treat in itself.
因爲是在酒店裏的餐廳,所以 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire 從早餐、午餐、下午茶、到晚餐都有,不過我個人最喜歡的是午餐。白天的空間裏充滿自然光,季節對的時候窗外會種滿玫瑰,打開窗戶有陣陣涼風吹入,光坐在那兒就心情大好。
The 2-3 courses lunch (298-358RMB) is also much more approachable than dinner (800+RMB), with an abundant menu offering 4-5 options for each course. It was winter during my last visit, so I started with a bowl of heart-warming bouillon forestier with squash gnocchi, small onions, and Yunnan mushrooms.
2-3道式的午餐價位(298-358RMB)相對晚餐(800+RMB)來說更親民,而且前菜、主菜、和甜點都有4-5道可以選擇,相當有誠意。上回去天氣正冷,先點了一份風味濃郁的野菌蘑菇湯,南瓜土豆丸、小洋蔥、雲南蘑菇暖暖胃。
My lunch date’s crudo of gilt-heat bream, with artichoke puree, mustard, and carrot syrup, light and refreshing.
朋友點的柑橘鲷魚片,芥末洋薊泥,胡蘿蔔醬,風味清爽。
As for the main course, I was delighted to find a dish that’s rarely seen in Shanghai – cod fish soufflé. It was served over a bed of slow-simmered leeks with cheddar cheese and butter Nantais – a hearty dish most appropriate to counter this winter cold.
主菜的部分,很驚喜地發現有道十分傳統、而且在上海其它餐廳似乎沒見過的鳕魚舒芙蕾。主廚巧妙地搭配了慢炖京蔥、巧達芝士、以及南特奶油,熱騰騰地一口吃下,幸福感油然而生。
There’s also a roasted chicken, which sounds simple but hits all the right notes with its accompanying thickened tamarind juice, green lentils, pear, braised turnips, and shallot confit.
朋友點了一道看似簡單、但相當美味的烤雞 – 羅望子汁、連奴豆、梨、炖蘿蔔、小乾蔥,也是直擊人心。
For dessert, we shared a meringue rose: red fruits thickened with redcurrant jelly, mascarpone cheese cream with bitter almond, large pistachio tuile.
最後的甜點,我們分享了一道風味和色調都非常少女心的玫瑰蛋白霜:紅果醬黑加侖果凍、杏仁馬斯卡彭芝士奶油、開心果脆片。
To finish, there’s tea or coffee included in the set, served in pretty porcelain. The next time you are treating yourself, consider Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire – there’s not much lovelier than having lunch at one of the window tables in this dining room.
最後,以套餐附送的茶(也可選擇咖啡)舒舒服服地結束這一餐。想要犒賞自己的時候,就會想到這間明亮的餐廳。坐在窗邊,享受一頓對得起自己味蕾的午餐,再開心不過了。
Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire
地址:建國西路480號
電話:(021)5466 9928
營業時間:7am-10pm
價位:午餐298-358元+10%,晚餐800元+
造訪日期:2019年1月