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Oha Eatery
Add: 23 Anfu Road
Tel: 13621647680
Hours: 11am-2pm, 5-10pm
Price: lunch 70-120 RMB, dinner 200-300 RMB
Visited: Jan 2018
Oha Cafe, the newest addition to the ever-so-popular Anfu Road, is a coffee window brought to you by the folks behind Bar No. 3. It’s small but stylish, pairing warm wood with a sliver of bright blue, easily attracting passerby like myself.
某天在安福路上閒逛時發現了一家新的咖啡店，叫做 Oha Cafe。說它是咖啡店吧，其實比較像是個咖啡窗口外加兩個小座位。門面就這麽點大，溫暖的木頭色和一絲亮眼的藍，給原本就已相當洋氣的安福路又添了份時髦感。
Latte in hand, I was about to walk away…then I noticed that there’s something more.
買了杯拿鐵准備走人的時候，發現這 cafe 後面似乎另有乾坤…
In fact, there’s whole restaurant nestled quietly just behind the cafe!
原來在小小咖啡窗口後面，還有一間 Oha Eatery 知覺食堂。
Oha Eatery, just like its cafe, is small and dainty. It consists of a narrow U-shaped bar that seats no more than 20, with stylish overhead lights and a single vase of wild flowers to soften the vibe.
食堂同樣小巧精致，基本上就是個狹長的U型吧台，可能20個位子都不到吧。頂上配個畫龍點睛的吊燈，還有一瓶花給空間帶來一些柔和。
The eatery is opened by Oha, a design company owned by a Guizhou proprietor. Its menu is a short and unique selection of Guizhou-influenced dishes, put together by a New Zealand head chef with the contribution from a local Guizhou chef. This could potentially be very awkward…or very awesome.
Oha 其實是個設計公司，來自貴州的老板開了這家食堂，聘了位新西蘭主廚，做著貴州 fusion 混搭料理。聽起來有點莫名，不過也不由得對它産生興趣。順提，興國路上大家都很愛的 Bar No. 3 也是同個老板開的。
Well, let’s give it a try. At noon time, Oha Eatery offers a lunch set – choose any main course (58-110 RMB) and add 10 RMB to get an appetizer, rice/bread, and a small dessert, not a bad deal.
Oha Eatery 有午市套餐，任選一款主菜（價位58-110元不等）再加10元，就可以有一份小食、雜糧米飯或面包、以及一個小甜點。
Appetizer of the day was “burnt bell pepper and preserved egg”. Mashed yolk of preserved egg topped with peppers marinated in olive oil and wild pepper oil. Love at first bite.
當日小食是火燒彩椒皮蛋。取皮蛋蛋黃的部分磨成泥鋪在底部，上面的彩椒由橄榄油和木姜子油腌制過，特別香。
Appetizer #2, fried tofu skin with meat. While I liked the fragrance and the slightly numbing sensation from sichuan pepper, this dish was overall too greasy for me.
炸豆皮小肉餅。豆皮用花椒油浸腌再炸，微微的麻辣很誘人，不過略顯油膩。
For the main course, we first tried “king prawns and tofu” (92 RMB). The king prawns were topped with pine nuts and crumbled tempeh, very charming especially with the accompanying smoked tofu, presented two ways: some mashed, some deep-fried.
主菜選的是帝王蝦與煙熏豆腐（92元）。煙熏豆腐用兩種方式呈現：一部分腐磨碎做爲醬汁，另一部分油炸。帝王蝦上撒著松子和天貝（tempeh，一種印尼的豆類發酵品），味道和口感都很不錯。
Then there was the “glazed beef shin” (105 RMB). Soft and melting beef shin bathing in a beef and mushroom stock, overall quite bland and could use a bit of a spark.
也嚐了慢炖牛腱肉野生蘑菇湯（105元）。牛腱炖得軟嫩，搭配牛骨湯和野生蘑菇高湯，用了花椒油提味，但不是非常的麻。這道菜對我來說偏淡了，缺少了火花。
“Lard rice”. What it is: rice drizzled with melted fat and house-made sweet soy sauce, topped with sprinkles of pork mince. So good I could have two bowls of this just by itself.
豬油肉哨飯。除了豬油還加了店自制的甜醬油，撒上肉末和肉哨，好吃到可以再來一碗。
Mini dessert was “lemongrass cream with black sesame tuile”. Refreshing flavor from the lemon grass, but the cream was too sweet and I ended up not finishing it.
附送的小甜點是檸檬草奶油和黑芝麻脆片。檸檬草雖然清新，但奶油稍甜了些，最終沒能吃完。創意是好的。
Note: it is recommended to make a reservation or come early for lunch, since noon business here is very good (fills up soon after 12pm).
Oha Eatery 中午生意非常好，12點過不了多久就全部坐滿了，建議提前訂位或早點來。
Intrigued by the creative dishes and good service, I decided to come back the very same day for dinner. The waitress, seeing that I was here again just a few hours later, smiled and ushered me to sit down.
一餐吃下來覺得相當有趣，服務員又可愛（而且菜都說的非常仔細），當天晚上決定再回來嚐嚐其他菜色。看到我同一天來兩次，服務員笑了，招呼我入座。
First, a glass of wine. I was surprised to see a selection of orange wines on the menu as it’s rarely seen in China, and proceeded to order two glasses. I’ve tried orange wines before at London’s Sager + Wilde and was quite amused by these “skin contact wines”, meaning that they have spent time in contact with the grape skins, giving the wine an orange color. My friend went with the sweeter Leon Barral Blanc (146 RMB/glass), with notes of pineapple, mango, and honey, while I chose the drier La Stoppa Ageno (144 RMB/glass). Both delicious.
先來杯酒。Oha Eatery 的酒單上居然看到在內地很少見的 orange wine，好奇地點了兩杯。之前曾在倫敦的 Sager + Wilde 嚐過橘酒，知道它在釀造過程中加入了葡萄皮一起發酵，所以呈現這漂亮的顔色，味道也非常特別。朋友選了偏甜的 Leon Barral Blanc（146元／杯），帶點菠蘿、芒果、蜂蜜風味，我選了較干的 La Stoppa Ageno（144元／杯），更多的是礦物香氣。橘酒味道非常特殊，並非人見人愛而且價格較貴，不過若你有喜歡嚐鮮的味蕾，不妨試試看。
Dinner started with “mouldy tofu salad” (32 RMB). The chef marinated fermented tofu from Guizhou with honey and lemon juice to give it layers of flavor, then plated it with house-made pickled carrots, watermelon radish, and a Chinese vegetable called “caotou”. Sweet and sour, not a bad way to work up the appetite.
晚餐，從相當清爽的蜂蜜堅果酸沙拉（32元）開始。主廚將貴州農家老奶奶做的發酵豆腐用蜂蜜和檸檬浸漬了一個星期，在原本的鹹味上加了酸甜，再搭配自制酸蘿蔔、心裏美蘿蔔和草頭。適合當開胃菜。
“Charcoal BBQ beef tongue” (38 RMB) came as a beautiful tower, layering the beef with watermelon radish and cherry wood-roasted leeks. The douchi (fermented black beans from Guizhou) on the side is strong and to be consumed with caution.
櫻桃木炭烤牛舌（38元）。牛舌慢煮後仍保留了有彈性的口感，搭配心裏美蘿蔔和用櫻桃木碳烤過大蔥。一旁點綴著略帶（香）臭味的貴州濕豆豉，讓這道菜亮了。
“Smoked farmhouse pork with fermented chili” (39 RMB) with grilled mantou slices.
辣味熏肉配烤饅頭片（39元）將貴州冬天經常吃的辣肉煙熏後用糟辣椒煸過，再手撕開。糟辣椒有點像剁椒，但又帶有酸味，搭配烤饅頭片挺有意思。
“Seared seabass with pomelo pucree, carrots, and sesame” (110 RMB). I didn’t find the seabass itself very memorable, but the pickled carrots sesame cumin salad was a hit. For the sauce, house-camdied pomelo is pureed whole, skin and rind included, to preserve its fragrance and bitterness. Five spice chilli powder from Guizhou is available for those who deem this dish too bland.
手工柚子醬煎海鲈魚排（110元）。雖然主角是海鲈魚，但我喜歡的是上面的紅蘿蔔沙拉，經過糖醋腌漬後在拌入黑白芝麻和一點孜然提味，有點令人上瘾。底部的柚子泥，做法是將整顆柚子花一天時間糖漬後打成泥，保留了柚子的香和苦。嫌這道菜清淡的話，可以搭配一旁的貴州五香辣椒粉。
“Moutain style chili chicken” (62 RMB) is one of the most popular dishes at Oha Eatery. Marinated chicken, slow-cooked, then fried crispy. The sauce at the bottom is a mash of chilli pepper and spices, and is indeed VERY, SPICY, best with a bowl of mixed grain rice.
森林風格辣子雞（62元）聽說是 Oha Eatery 目前最受歡迎的一道菜。雞肉腌制入味後低溫慢煮，再經高溫油炸做出香脆的口感。底部的醬汁由辣椒和香料熬制而成，非、常、辣，建議點一碗雜糧飯搭配著吃。
For those looking for even more spicy challenges, try “wired fried rice” (28 RMB) . For this, chilli peppers are braised and mashed, then made into fried rice along with pickles, chicken skin, sausages, and other yummy things.
不怕辣的也可以選擇怪噜炒飯（28元）。主廚將辣椒熬煮過後打成泥，加入泡菜、煙熏豆泥、雞皮、香腸等一起炒成這碗辣味十足的飯。
The only dessert option: basil mousse (48 RMB) comes with turmeric sorbet, candied turmeric, and brown butter white chocolate powder. Not delicious in the traditional sense, but is for sure an interesting combination.
甜點只有一樣：羅勒慕斯（48元），搭配姜黃冰霜、糖漬姜黃、白巧克力焦化黃油粉末，不是傳統意義上的美味，但是個相當有趣的組合。
The food at Oha Eatery would be too complicated if you are looking for something simple and comforting, but for those who are open challenging their tastebuds by trying some playful culinary ideas, Oha would be a fun one to test. Perhaps for the first visit, come during lunch time for the more affordable lunch set, then decide if you’d like to come back for dinner.
Oha Eatery 的料理是引人思考的，是刺激味覺的。如果你想要吃一頓輕松簡單的家常菜，那麽這裏可能太複雜了，不過如果你願意花些時間了解主廚的巧妙心思，希望給自己的味蕾一點與衆不同的挑戰，那麽請來嚐嚐。第一次不妨選擇中午前往，有比較平易近人的午市套餐可以讓你先試個水。
Oha Eatery 知覺食堂
地址：安福路23號
電話：13621647680
營業時間：11am-2pm，5-10pm
價位：午餐 70-120 元，晚餐 200-300 元
造訪於：2018年1月