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Oxalis
Add: 1-3 Maojiayuan Road 毛家園路1-3號
Tel: 6080 2918
Hours: [lunch] 12-2:30pm [weekend brunch] 12-3pm [dinner] 6-10pm
Price: [brunch] 200-250 RMB [dinner] 300-400 RMB
Visited: Jul 2018
Shanghai has plenty of spots that do brunch, but this new one right here has got my heart. The location is slightly off – at South Bund on the first floor of the Waterhouse Hotel – but weekends are meant to be spent going after good food anyway, no?
上海可以吃早午餐的地方隨手抓就是一把，不過最近開的這一家，可以說是深得我心了。地點稍微有些偏，在南外灘水舍酒店一樓，不過周末本來也就悠閑，爲了好吃的跑一趟還是值得的。
You probably have already noticed that this location used to be Table No. 1. Yes, that space previously occupied by Jason Atherton & Co. have been taken over by Jonas Noël, and he has since changed the restaurant name to Oxalis. Jonas might be young, but he already boasts an impressive CV – he started off at Michel Bras (3 Michelin stars, France), subsequently honed his skills at Bagatelle (2 Michelin stars, Norway), then made his way to Asia, first at Caprice (3 Michelin stars, Hong Kong), then eventually became the sous chef at L’Atelier de Joël Robouchon (2 Michelin stars, Shanghai).
Note: oxalis is the first type of edible herb that Jonas found while foraging for Restaurant Bras.
眼尖的讀者應該馬上就發現這是之前 Table No. 1 的位置。是的，這地方最近換了新主廚 Jonas Noël，名字也改成了 Oxalis（中文名：歐社）。Jonas 雖然年輕，但擁有相當華麗的履曆 – 他早年師從法國名廚 Michel Bras，隨後在挪威米其林二星 Bagatelle 經曆了北歐料理的洗禮，五年前來到亞洲，先待了香港三星 Caprice，然後在上海二星 L’Atelier de Joël Robouchon 擔任 sous chef 一職。
注：Oxalis 是種酸酸甜甜的酢漿草，是 Jonas 當年在 Restaurant Bras 工作時出外采集的第一株食用香草。
All those big names aside, Jonas’ cuisine is indeed excellent. I’d been to dinner at Oxalis once, and as I was very happy with what I tasted, decided to come back for the recently-launched brunch menu. (Incidentally, the Oxalis space, in my personal opinion, is also much more agreeable during day light than after dark.) Perhaps because of its off-the-path location, or because the news about its new chef / concept hasn’t gone out yet, the restaurant wasn’t packed during brunch time. Not ideal for the restaurant, but perfect for me as I thoroughly enjoy the laid-back atmosphere.
必須說，Jonas 的料理是真的好吃。之前已試過晚餐（非常滿意），所以這次又回來嚐嚐早午餐（還是喜歡這個空間充滿自然光的樣子）。可能因爲餐廳位置有些偏，換主廚的消息也還沒傳得太開，Oxalis 周末並沒有客滿。唔，這對餐廳來說可能不是件好事，但我倒是非常開心可以在如此悠閑安靜的環境慢慢享受周末…
Oxalis’ brunch menu is set at 188 RMB for 3 courses (+10% service charge), a very fair price. Instead of the ubiquitous pancakes and French toasts, Jonas has put his own personal touches on the menu, such as the shrimp and avocado “cocktail style” in which he layered avocado mash, tomato jelly, fresh shrimps etc. into a beautiful appetizer. Fresh, perfect on a hot summer day.
Oxalis 的早午餐定價 188 元三道菜（+10%服務費），合理。菜單上沒有松餅、法式吐司等常見字眼，取而代之的是 Jonas 自己的特色，比如這道 shrimp and avocado “cocktail style”，將酪梨泥、番茄凍、鮮蝦等層層堆叠，清爽而鮮美，在炎炎夏日享用再適合不過了。
Another favorite dish of mine was the Atlantic halibut “under a bread crust” with sweet peas, radish, and lemon butter. I remember the succulent texture of this halibut from the previous dinner, and was not disappointed when I tried it again at brunch.
另一道極愛的是 Atlantic halibut：比目魚佐豌豆、小圓蘿蔔、和檸檬黃油。之前在晚餐時嚐過一口便對它的鮮嫩程度印象深刻，早午餐再點一次仍然滿意。
Of course, if you are looking for typical brunch dishes, Oxalis has got some. Go for the smoked salmon with housemade blinis, served warm with roe, dill, and pickled shallots (caviar available for extra charge).
當然，若你想要些非常典型的 brunch food，Oxalis 也是有的，比如smoked salmon with blinis。這道看似普通，但 Oxalis 廚房自制的 blinis 口感綿密蓬松，上桌時還是溫熱的，搭配自制煙熏鮭魚、魚子、莳蘿、山葵，everything’s just right.
There are also a couple of poached egg options, from which I chose the “Oxalis style”, served on housemade English muffin with brown crab and a curried celeriac remoulade – a creative deviation from the typical ham and Hollandaise combo.
也有幾個水波蛋的選擇。我嚐了 “Oxalis style” 版本，搭配咖喱口味的蟹肉和芹菜根，很特別的口味。
If you are a veggie lover as I am, try the cabbage “as a warm salad”. It’s almost like a Chinese style fried cabbage, preserving the natural crunchiness of the vegetable, then tossed with an herbed dressing, bottarga, and crushed Indian almond for extra texture.
若你跟我一樣很喜歡吃蔬菜，可以試試這道 cabbage “as a warm salad”：有點像中式的炒卷心菜（保留了蔬菜本身的微脆口感）再拌上西式的香草醬汁，最後撒上烏魚子和杏仁碎增加層次。
For those into blue cheese, another option would be the cos lettuce with blue cheese dressing, bacon, apple, and walnut. Nothing mind-blowing, just simple and tasty.
若可以接受藍紋芝士的香/臭味，也可以試試莴苣色拉佐藍紋芝士、培根、蘋果、胡桃。其實這是服務員下錯單，順勢送給我們的一道菜，並沒有非常特別，但簡單而美好。
For desserts, I quite enjoyed the floating island “under a veil of sugar”. I’m usually not so fond of meringue’s sweetness and soft texture, but the version at Oxalis was nicely balanced with vanilla sauce, caramel, and hazelnut. Light and airy, elegant like its name.
甜點，喜歡 floating island “under a veil of sugar” 的優雅。其實我平時並不是一個會主動點漂浮島的人（總覺得蛋白霜太甜，而且軟綿綿的口感也不討喜），但 Oxalis 的版本甜度控制地恰到好處，搭配香草醬汁、焦糖、和榛子，輕盈愉快。而且，名字 “under a veil of sugar” 好浪漫哦（實際上也很美）。
For a more substantial dessert, try the banana hazelnut tart. With a cup of espresso or Americano, this was the perfect sweet ending to my brunch.
想要更紮實一點的甜品，可以選擇香蕉榛果塔。搭配一杯 espresso 或者美式咖啡，完美的早午餐句點。
On another note, many of the plates and cups used at Oxalis are brought back by Jonas himself from Jingdezhen, a town in Jiangxi province famous for its porcelain production. I’m especially drawn to this set right here:
話說，不少餐廳裏用的杯盤（比如這組可愛的咖啡杯們）都是法國主廚親自去景德鎮挑選來的，是不是相當用心有誠意！
For those who are interested, here are a few dishes from dinner that made a memorable mark:
Chickpea Frie “Panisse Style” | Raw Scallop, Savory Lemon Curd, Coriander (48 RMB)
早午餐吃得愉快，那麽也順便分享一下上次去晚餐幾道喜歡菜色：
香煎鷹嘴豆糕 | 生扇貝，檸檬，香菜（48 RMB）
Mackerel | North African Spiced Yogurt, Cauliflower, Herb Salad (78 RMB)
腌冰島馬鲛魚 | 五香酸奶，花菜，香草沙拉（78 RMB）
Free Range Chicken | Carrot, Mustard, Chervil (78 RMB)
零度雞肉凍糕 | 胡蘿蔔，芥末，山蘿蔔（78 RMB）
Aussi Angus Beef | Lophraig 10y, Indian Almond, Oscietra Caviar (168 RMB)
牛肉塔塔 | 拉弗格醬汁，杏仁，魚子醬（168 RMB）
Royale N. 2 Oyster | Spinach, Almond, Curry Hollandaise (138 RMB)
法國皇家生蚝 No.2 | 菠菜，杏仁，荷蘭醬（138 RMB）
Farmhouse Camembert | Celery, Apple, Calvados (88 RMB)
法國卡門乳酪 | 西芹，蘋果，蘋果酒（88 RMB）
What I particularly like about Oxalis, is that while the chef sprinkles his creativity here and there, you won’t see crazy flavor combinations or over-the-top plating, just good, solid dishes at fair prices. I’d say go now while the place is still on the quiet side…shhh.
Oxalis 好吃而且價格不誇張，優質店一枚，推薦給你。這裏不會出現太華麗的擺盤或過于複雜的味道組合，但一道道料理都是紮紮實實的美味。建議趁著最近還沒有人滿爲患，先去嚐個鮮。
Oxalis 歐社
地址：毛家園路1-3號
電話：6080 2918
營業時間：午餐 12-2:30pm 周末早午餐 12-3pm 晚餐 6-10pm
價位：早午餐 200-250 元，晚餐 300-400元
造訪於：2018年7月