Tai’an Table
Add: N/A
Tel: N/A
Website: www.taian-table.com
Hours: [Tue-Sat] 6pm-12am (closed on Mon & Sun)
Visited on: Apr 2016
Rumor has it that Stefan Stiller’s dream has always been to have a small restaurant with an open kitchen cooking seasonal cuisine, and it seems like the recently-opened Tai’an Table is exactly that – a completely open kitchen, 20 bar seats, and one seasonal menu that changes monthly. No address, no phone number, just a reservation website. You go?
Stefan Stiller在德國曾擁有自己的米其林一星餐廳，也在上海開過精致的 fine dining 和閃亮亮的廚藝教室。不過，聽說大廚一直以來的夢想，其實是經營一家有開放式廚房的季節料理小餐廳。兩周前悄悄開幕的 “泰安門 Tai’an Table” 似乎是這樣的一個地方 － 完全開放式的廚房、20個吧台座位、一個每月更換的套餐；沒有地址，沒有電話，只有一個訂位網站。你，去嗎？
Stiller is cooking in the kitchen himself, but has also hired Jeno Racz from Hungary to be his chef de cuisine. Racz used to work at Noma in Copenhagen, Robuchon in Singapore, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in London, and more recently at a molecular gastronomy catering company called Bubble Food.
Stefan Stiller 除了親自掌管廚房之外，也請了來自匈牙利的 Jeno Racz 擔任 chef de cuisine。Racz 曾任職于哥本哈根Noma、新加坡 Robuchon、倫敦 Dinner by Heston Blumenthal、以及分子料理外燴公司 Bubble Food，履曆相當漂亮的他，一個多月前來到了上海。
Tai’an Table offers one no-choice menu changing on a monthly basis. The 10-course menu goes for 988 RMB, and the 14-course is 1288 RMB. Vegetarian and food allergies can be accommodated if discussed 2 days in advance.
泰安門僅提供一套每月更換的套餐，不能點菜，但可以選擇十道（988元）或十四道（1288元）。若是素食者或有食物過敏，也可以提前兩天和主廚溝通。
First came the amuse bouche. What looks like a cherry on the left is in fact beetroot wrapping celeriac and house-smoked almond cream, with a little bit of raspberry vinegar to elevate the flavor. On the right is eggplant cooked in dashi, topped with wasabi mayonnaise and pickled lotus root.
套餐的一開始先來了兩款開胃小食。左邊那個長的很像櫻桃的，紅色部份是甜菜根、裏面包了芹菜根和煙熏杏仁做的奶油，用了一點覆盆子醋提味；右邊是日式高湯煮過的茄子、搭配芥末蛋黃醬和腌制蓮藕。
Course #1: burrata, tomato, arugula pistou, topped with a sheet of squid ink crisp.
第一道：burrata 口袋芝士、西紅柿、芝麻菜做成的青醬、還有一片墨魚汁染色的脆片。
Course #2: mackerel, smoke, potato, horseradish. Pretty presentation, though the mackerel was quite a bit too salty and fishy for us.
第二道：馬鲛魚、煙熏、秘制土豆、辣根。漂亮，不過同行的幾個人都覺得這道菜太鹹了，而且腥味有點重。
Course #3: chawan mushi, caviar, broccoli coulis. The chawan mushi (Japanese-style steamed egg custard) and broccoli coulis were barely salted, combining well with the caviar.
第三道：茶碗蒸、魚子醬、西蘭花汁。茶碗蒸本身和西蘭花汁本身是沒有太多鹹味的，搭配魚子醬剛剛好。
Course #4: lobster, white asparagus, morels.
第四道：龍蝦、白蘆筍、羊肝菌。
Course #5: octopus, quinoa, dill mayo. The octopus has been slow-cooked for 24 hours, topping the quinoa flavored with garlic and chili oil. The dill oil used in the mayo is also squeezed in-house, and apparently 1 kg of dill only produces 170g of dill oil…
第五道：八爪魚、藜麥、莳蘿蛋黃醬。這是一道挺花功夫的料理：八爪魚經過 24 小時的慢煮，搭配用大蒜和辣油調味過的藜麥，甚至莳蘿蛋黃醬裏用的油也是他們自家榨的，據說每1公斤的莳蘿僅能榨出 170 克的油。
Course #6: parsley & garlic porridge, frog legs. Beautiful green color and lovely texture from the multi-grains. Frog legs fried crispy on the outside and tender within. Charming dish.
第六道：意大利芹蒜蓉粥、牛蛙腿。意大利芹除了有鮮綠的漂亮顔色外，風味也非常特別，加上粥裏用了好幾種谷物，口感豐富。酥炸牛蛙腿的外皮香脆，內裏鮮嫩。很喜歡這道菜。
Course #7: bone marrow, oyster cream, herb salad.
第七道：牛骨髓、生蚝醬、香料色拉。
Course #8: pigeon consomme, vegetables, kombu. Racz’s chef at Robuchon Singapore was Japanese, and the influence is shown in this dish with the Japanese dashi broth. On an unrelated note, the tiny, perfectly round vegetables reminded me of my days interning at Jean Georges…
第八道：鴿肉清湯、蔬菜、昆布。Racz 在新加坡 Robuchon 工作時的主廚是日本人，受到的影響在這道菜的日式高湯裏體現了出來。話說，這湯裏面一粒粒的蔬菜球讓我想到之前在甜點廚房當實習生，每天挖水果蔬菜球的日子…
Course #9: foie gras, carrot & ginger, green tomato.
第九道：鵝肝、胡蘿蔔、生姜、綠番茄。
Course #10: pork belly, tea sauce, chorizo, endives. The sauce is made from Lapsang Souchong, the heady smoky flavor combining interestingly with the succulent pork belly. The endive on the side was delicious too.
第十道：豬五花肉、煙熏茶葉醬、chorizo 香腸、菊苣。這煙熏茶葉醬用的是正山小種紅茶，濃郁的風味用來搭配柔軟的五花肉挺有趣的。旁邊的菊苣美味。
Course #11: cucumber sorbet, pickled cucumber, herb-snow. The chef used liquid nitrogen to freeze mixed herbs (dill, chervil, verbana, edible flowers to name a few), and sprinkles the ground bits on top of the sorbet and pickled cucumber. A lovely palate cleanser.
第十一道：黃瓜冰霜、腌制黃瓜、香料冰霜。Chef 用液態氮將莳蘿，山蘿蔔（茴芹）、馬鞭草、食用花瞬間冰凍後搗碎，撒在清爽的黃瓜冰霜和腌制黃瓜上，非常棒的一款清口小品。
Course #12: wagyu beef MS 7+, red cabbage “ketchup”.
第十二道：和牛 MS 7＋、紅生菜 “番茄醬” 。牛肉的味道和口感都處理的非常好，雖然已經非常飽了，卻還是忍不住一口接著一口。
Course #13: “umeboshi” cream cheese, matcha, dried strawberries. To have umeboshi with cream cheese is a first for me, and I was quite intrigued by this sour and savory dessert. Also, I’m not usually a fan of meringue, but with a sprinkling of dried strawberries there were super yum.
第十三道：酸梅奶油芝士、日本抹茶、乾草莓。日式酸梅和奶油芝士的結合還是第一次嚐到，酸味和鹹味都很明顯的一道創意甜點。連我不特別喜歡蛋白霜在撒了乾草莓之後，都變的好好吃喲。
Course #14: chocolate & passion-fruit. What looks like chocolate sorbet is in fact gelato made from deep-roasted cocoa and no diary, the flavor is intense and unfamiliar. Very pleasant with the refreshing acidity of passion fruit.
第十四道：巧克力，百香果。看起來是普通的巧克力冰淇淋，但其實是用了深度烘培過的可可粉而且不加任何乳制品做成的，風味極爲濃郁。搭配百香果的酸甜，很不錯。中間那條可可果凍我個人就不是特別喜歡了。
Farewell sweets.
“歡送甜點”。
With a 14-course meal, of course not everything is going hit the spot, but it was an interesting procession of up and down. Racz told us that the menu we had was “pretty basic”, and that he plans to put a lot more creative things on the table in the future. With a menu that changes monthly, there sure are a lot to look forward to.
這頓 14 道菜的晚餐，當然不可能每一部份都令人驚豔，不過有上下起伏，是一場有趣的戲。主廚說目前的菜色還算基本，日後他希望能夠做出更創新，更大膽的料理給客人們品嚐。每個月換一次菜單，令人期待哪。
On another note, there are also two 4-seat booths at Tai’an Table should you want something more private.
順帶一提，泰安們也有兩個四人做的位子，如果想要較爲私密的環境，也可以選擇這裏（不過樣就看不到廚房裏的動靜喽）。
泰安門 Tai’an Table
地址：／
電話：／
訂位網站：www.taian-table.com
營業時間：周二－六 6pm-12am
價位：988／10道菜，1288RMB／14道菜
造訪：2016年4月