Settling down into my chair at logy that evening, I could immediately sense a different vibe. The space was audibly and visibly livelier than the norm – the sounds of prepping abuzz in the air, and staff gliding from station to station like busy bees.
It was the third and final service of a collaboration between logy and Le Côté LM. With two teams integrated into one kitchen, it was no wonder that there was a distinct energy, which oozed out from the open cooking area into where I was seated.
Prior to this evening, I had never tasted anything by chef Lanshu Chen, though I had heard much about her and her beautiful restaurant Le Moût (now Le Côté LM). In person, she was quite like how I imagined her to be – precise and focused in her gestures, elegant and calm in her leadership.
Chef Ryogo Tahara, as usual, was giving his eagle eye stares to the logy staff, stares so fierce with concentrated energy that they seemed to pierce through physical objects. You’d know what I mean if you’ve seen him at work.
First, the amuse-bouches. From Le Côté LM, a cube of “French toast” with foie gras, coffee, and marsala caramel, topped with thinly sliced potato sandwiching lemon, air dried until crisp.
From logy, a delicate mini beetroot taco with corn, paprika, smoked avocado, and chorizo, a tiny but memorable bite filled with punch.
Tart from logy, featuring geoduck’s uniquely sweet, crunchy flesh, surrounded by cucumber, Italian lime confit, grapefruit, chamomile, marigold…a gorgeous summer garden in full bloom.
Next, a symphony in white and black from Le Côté LM, one of my favorites of the evening. Crunchy white fungus topped with tender bamboo shoot, brown rice crisps, slices of Australian black truffle, and a thick, cold sauce of bamboo shoot, sesame, and dried conch, which held the dish together with such lovely roundedness. There’s a delicate – and rather feminine – sensibility at work here. It reminded me of white orchids painted by Georgia O’Keeffe.
Another dainty little construction from Le Côté LM. From the bottom up: maitake mushroom, dried slightly for an intensified fragrance; sea eel, with a hint of Sichuan pepper; salsa verde with parsley and other herbs; roasted Brussel sprouts providing a bitter balance. The sauce? Sea eel bones, with a reduction of balsamic vinegar.
Followed by logy’s crab bisque risotto, laced with the soft, sweet richness of sea urchin and invigorating notes from mint and tarragon. While the dish was called risotto, it was not made with arborio, carnaroli, or any other risotto rice varieties. Chef Tahara chose to use Taiwanese sticky rice, its texture soft and resilient at the same time, giving in gently between the teeth then bouncing back slightly with each bite…addictively good. A dish I would dream about for weeks to come.
Main course by Le Côté LM: lamb loin, accompanied by couscous and endives sautéed in butter. It was a lively ensemble, with acidity from rhubarb, sweetness from raisins, crispy lamb meat bits, and in the round, brown aroma of the lamb sauce, sand ginger whispering a gentle spiciness.
The spices in this dish floated me back to Le Petit Bleu, a tiny Moroccan canteen in the Oberkampf neighborhood of Paris, where I used to dive into generous portions of tagines and couscous. It’s not a flavor we often come across in Taiwan, making this a (very pleasant) surprise trip down the memory lane for me.
Main course from logy: pigeon from Pintung stuffed with chicken mousse, black garlic sauce and shiso flower, edamame enveloped in sweet pea puree, and chanterelle mushrooms in pigeon liver salmis sauce.
Dessert from Le Côté LM: peaches, fromage blanc ice cream, blueberry with verbena, Lu-Gu Oolong tea custard.
I loved the next dish from logy, melding dessert and cheese in one course. Brown sugar crepe filled with a rich gorgonzola white chocolate ganache, infused with just a bit of lavender for its unmistakable floral note. A warm sauce of shiso, sour cherry, and caramel, and fig leaf ice cream melting across the top…
And finally, the mignardises.
I’m often weary of the exceedingly sweet treats – chocolate bonbons, marshmallows, and pâte-de-fruit – at the end of a very long fine dining feast. So it was a wonderful relief to be presented with these delightful bites instead: Ethiopian coffee coffee jelly, fresh watermelon, and finger lime for an extra spark of acidity. I don’t think I have tasted this combination before – the closest perhaps being lemon coffee – and for me, it was truly the perfect ending to tonight’s experience.
Pairing of the evening, a delightful lineup chosen by logy’s sommelier Kevin Lu. It was heavy on the whites, the first and only red of the evening (not counting the dessert wine) appeared only during the pigeon dish…interesting choices, and quite fitting for this season.
- Champagne A. Margaine 2012
- IWA5 Sake
- Ch. Lynch Bages, Bordeaux Blanc 2016
- Domaine de Montcalmès, Languedoc 2018
- Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris, Rangen de Thann Grand Cru 2003
- Domaine Lamarche Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes 2017
- M. Chapoutier Rivesaltes 1995
Incidentally, Kevin will be representing Taiwan in the “Contest of Best Sommelier of the World Competition 2023”, which will take place next February in Paris. Wish him luck!
